I’m all for the cops who ‘protect and serve’ but it seems that many of the motorcycle cops are simply out to write lame ass tickets.
I guess when they aren’t eating doughnuts, or earning revenue for some shiny new knee high motorcycle boots, they are doing this:
Case Cleaning 101
Spent an hour or two on some elbow grease this weekend.
I’ve seen worse engines but no matter, they all get nasty.
I hit it with some Engine Brite foam, a screwdriver to scrape off all the crap, a toothbrush, some highly concentrated Simple Green, water, occasional spray of some carb cleaner for those hard to reach places, and i’m still not done! There are parts of this engine that hasn’t seen the light of day in 40 years. At least now i can pick it up without getting my hands dirty.
I’ll do another round of cleaning and then I’m probably going to paint it with some high heat engine enamel… probably. It seemed to work the best out of the past 2 engines I’ve cleaned.
Engine out and torn apart
I finally got around to getting the engine out of the frame. It is nasty and dirty. As i started to take the heads off, i started noticing some surprises.
The park plugs are brand new.
I popped off the valve cover and it looked like brand new valves and springs. unfortunately, this bike has been sitting for at least 15 years with no oil and some rust has accumulated on the springs.
At this point, i wanted to seek the expert advice of my engine mechanic. I know all the parts of the engine, but i can’t put one together… nor can i take one completely apart. I want to go entirely through this bike and make it brand new again… and that includes every piece of the engine. And it was a good thing i did.
I should have noticed the pushrod tubes were new but maybe the rust threw me off.
As it turns out, somebody started to rebuild the engine. But they did it in a half assed way. One side has brand new valve job with new BMW valves. the other side has the original valves, just cleaned up. Clean pistons too but who the hell knows what the spec might be on them. they aren’t new BMW so maybe they were bored out? is it worth the gamble? i’d say not. The Siebenrock piston and cylinder kit is a much safer bet and upgrade. I’d rather run Nicasil cylinders to be compatible with today’s gas vs cylinders meant for the gas of the 70s.
The question is what to do with the heads. One may be OK, provided it has factory BMW valves and not aftermarket. The other is definitely in need of new valves to match. Do they both get new Black Diamond valves or do we replace just the one side with BMW valves? Either way, they will come completely apart and be reassembled.
Good thing we went this deep into the engine. the timing sprocket and chain had a TON of slack in it. 2 of the cam followers were pretty beat too. I can’t understand somebody doing a new head job, boring out pistons and then putting it on an engine with such a slacked out timing chain.
Time to attack the case
You should have seen all the sludge caked onto the inside and outside of the oil pan. Again, i can’t believe somebody put the engine back together and was going to run it with all the sludge in there. I literally had to scrape all the old oil out of the oil pan. it was like somebody poured syrup in there and let it solidify a bit. i should have snapped a photo for the ‘wall of shame’ but i went straight to cleaning everything up.
I now have all these parts boxed up. The plan is to clean and polish the exterior parts and spray it with a thermal dispersion clear coat to help dissipate the heat from the engine. I’ll keep the stock cam shaft. I’ll have to do some research on Black Diamond valves vs BMW valves. Since we already have 2 BMW valves, we may go the cheap route and do the other two to match vs a new set of 4. Siebenrock kit will solve any piston and cylinder concerns. That kit works with the (recommends) stainless steel pushrod tubes and later seals.
Lastly is the rockers. I have never seen rockers on a bike earlier then 1977. The engines on my two other bikes are from 77 and 79. It turns out that until 1973, the /5 rockers were the brass bushing type. In 1974, they switched to a needle bearing. I’ll probably want to upgrade them somehow but i’ll have to figure out what parts work with the /5 heads.
Lyle has a BMW
BMW R75/5 flywheel lightening weight
I got the flywheel lightened from San Jose BMW.
According to my household scale, the original flywheel weighs in at about 12 pounds. Maybe a shade more.
The new lightened flywheel now weighs about 8 pounds.
Taking off 4 pounds doesn’t seem like much but that is about 1/3 of the weight removed.
In addition to removing a few pounds and making the bike a bit lighter, this should allow the engine to work easier so the RPMs can climb and drop quicker.
BMW clutch plate with flat head screws.
When i took the transmission out of our donor bike (the one with the broken rod), i was a bit surprised when i saw the clutch plate screwed in with flat head screws. Typically they have hex-head screws. I guess BMW did this on the /2 models and some of the bikes leading into the very early 70s. Seeing this also made me wonder if this bike was still on it’s first clutch, 40 years later.
I tried like crazy to get these screws out. I tried with big screw drivers, screw tips in a ratchet, an air impact drill…and i got nowhere. Only frustrated.
I ordered an impact driver set that comes with a thick flat-head screw bit.
I twisted the driver while whacking it and it took 3 screws out very easily. The other 3 put up a challenge… so out came the propane torch. The the 4th came out easy. The 5th took a bit more work… and well, the 6th…it gave me a nasty blood blister but i finally got it.

I probably spent a total of 1.5 hours or more removing this freaking clutch and flywheel. But i loved every minute of it.
Fender Trimming
While i was cutting up the headlight ears, i figured i might as well start trimming and fitting the fenders.
I hope to add some sort of rear fender under the seat to protect all the road grime and pebbles from getting kicked up into the engine area. On one of the donor bikes we acquired, the rear fender had the typical cracks where the mounting points are. But that damage was at the rear mounting points. I’m glad i held onto it because i realized that the two front mounting points have good fiberglass still. I cut the fender down and started fitting it under the seat and with the battery relocation kit.
It breaks my heart to cut up a brand new fender like this… but i definitely don’t want or need the massive size of the stock fender. So… off goes a few inches. I’ll let the person who preps this for paint do all the clean up and round the edges.
Photos of the rear fender mounted on the bike to come… I still have some trouble shooting to do with the cafe seat…






















