Engine Paint

After TONS of cleaning, I finally decided on which paint to use. I went with a 1200 degree ceramic based engine paint i had sitting in my garage. I had nearly a full can left from an old project. It seemed to go on the smoothest when i rubbed it on.
Yes, i said rubbed it on… meaning i didn’t spray or brush the paint on, i actually rubbed it into the metal with a rag. After i finished, if needed, i would go over an area with a very light spray.

I desperately wanted the POR 15 engine enamel to work but it did not brush on very smoothly. It went on VERY thick and adds an entirely new surface to whatever you are painting (i tested on a BMW valve cover for my 2002). It looked almost like a powder coat type surface.
It sprayed OK but i didn’t want to spray my parts and worry about masking everything off. The rub technique worked well at times, and not at others.
If you buy it, i do recommend thinning and spraying it. It is actually a nice product. I sprayed one side of a 318i manifold and it looks pretty good. i think the thinner and the spray helped it not go on so cake-like.

Anyhow, back to my ceramic based high temp paint… I started with the final drive and front brake hub. When i finished those, i went to look for more paint only to find out it was discontinued about 2 years ago.
Douph! Just my luck…
I began to think of how much paint i wasted on testing, and spraying other stuff…

Final drive painted. Half the front brake hub is painted.

Done and dry.

With fingers crossed, i made it through the project with enough paint to spare for touch ups (if needed). Phew… it was a nail biter though.

Painted transmission case and engine block.

So clean you could eat off it!

Testing engine paint

My motorcycle lift has become a test center. I plan on fuel injecting my 1972 BMW 2002 someday… so i have some car parts to test high heat engine paint on before i apply it to the motorcycle bits. Last time i had great success rubbing paint on. I may use the same paint/technique… however the paint i want to use looks best when i spray it… oh decisions…

A plethora of BMW aluminum.

Blasted

I love bare steel.
I got a call from the powder coat shop yesterday. My parts are blasted. I went down there today to go over what needs to be masked and not coated. I spent about an hour roughly taping things off. I can’t imaging how long it will take somebody to mask it all properly.

hubs, fork sliders, center stand, final drive.

Frame (and somebody's car rims).

Little bits. Final Drive.

Even smaller bits.

Some Stop Tech brakes.

More Stop Tech calipers. After they get coated, there is a crew of women who screen print the logos on them.

Men at work... plugging and masking.

Men at work... spraying.

Ready for blasting and coating

All this stuff is boxed up and ready to get blasted.
Instead of a powder coat, i found a color that is very close to the silver we want… except it is a liquid coat. It is the same material used on racing brake calipers among other items. It gets sprayed on similar to a powder, and baked like a powder, but it is a thinner coat (which is good for parts fitting) and very resistant and durable to chemicals, heat, etc…
I’ll have more information on it tomorrow after i drop my parts off.
My shop turned me onto it last time as we were trying different options to match the color we want to a Porsche silver. This liquid coat was the closest.

Fitting BMW controls onto 7/8 bars

It seems that every cool aftermarket handlebar out there is for 7/8″ bikes. BMW has a slightly smaller handlebar measured at 22mm diameter.
PURISTS BEWARE (I’ve been criticized for the following procedure before).
All it takes to solve the issue is a Dremel and some grinding bits.
Also, please note that i have already ground down the handlebar mount clamps to fit nicely over the 7/8 bars.

Tools for the job.

Mission accomplished.

Tail Light bracket

A few final parts needed to be fitted before I can send everything off for blasting and power coat.
Those include a tail light hanger/bracket and small hangers for the rear turn signals.
I found these great old British turn signals. I have no idea what they are for, but for $35, i had to pick it up. The box is dated 1968 and i thought it would make a great tail light. If anybody has any information on it, please contact me? I’d love to know what it was intended for.

WIPAC British turn signal.



Our new tail light

We also bought another rear tail light that comes with a great hinged license plate bracket just in case the British light didn’t fit or work.
Seeing that the British light would work, i decided to incorporate it with the new license plate bracket (it is the black bracket seen in the next few photos).

I made a prototype bracket to hang the tail light from out of a sheet of aluminum i had laying around. Then sent it to a family friend who is a machinist for Coke. He took my template and made a bracket out of thick stainless steel. He made it a bit larger so i had to trim it down.

Bracket development. The stainless steel is a thick gauge and shouldn't 'unbend'.




Prototype tail light bracket.

I found these nice and small bullet shaped turn signals. I plan to have them blasted and coated to match the rest of the parts. Unfortunately, the small holes on the subframe that I intended to hang them from conflict with the lower edge of the seat cowl. I thought about trimming the seat/fiberglass but it would disturb the lines that the seat makes as it covers subframe.
So i made some small brackets to drop the turn signal down away from the seat.

Bullet rear turn signal



I didn't like how long the stems were so I trimmed them down.

Booty shot.

tail light and rear turn signal

All done. I love a few hours on a Sunday afternoon grinding and drilling metal.