Engine Paint

After TONS of cleaning, I finally decided on which paint to use. I went with a 1200 degree ceramic based engine paint i had sitting in my garage. I had nearly a full can left from an old project. It seemed to go on the smoothest when i rubbed it on.
Yes, i said rubbed it on… meaning i didn’t spray or brush the paint on, i actually rubbed it into the metal with a rag. After i finished, if needed, i would go over an area with a very light spray.

I desperately wanted the POR 15 engine enamel to work but it did not brush on very smoothly. It went on VERY thick and adds an entirely new surface to whatever you are painting (i tested on a BMW valve cover for my 2002). It looked almost like a powder coat type surface.
It sprayed OK but i didn’t want to spray my parts and worry about masking everything off. The rub technique worked well at times, and not at others.
If you buy it, i do recommend thinning and spraying it. It is actually a nice product. I sprayed one side of a 318i manifold and it looks pretty good. i think the thinner and the spray helped it not go on so cake-like.

Anyhow, back to my ceramic based high temp paint… I started with the final drive and front brake hub. When i finished those, i went to look for more paint only to find out it was discontinued about 2 years ago.
Douph! Just my luck…
I began to think of how much paint i wasted on testing, and spraying other stuff…

Final drive painted. Half the front brake hub is painted.

Done and dry.

With fingers crossed, i made it through the project with enough paint to spare for touch ups (if needed). Phew… it was a nail biter though.

Painted transmission case and engine block.

So clean you could eat off it!

5 thoughts on “Engine Paint

  1. Looks factory bright. Rubbing sounds interesting, I wouldn’t have thought of that for putting an even coat on anything you didn’t sand afterward. I’d also be concerned about lint, but you must’ve resolved that problem. Its too bad they don’t make that particular finish anymore. I’d be interested to know if you come across anything equivalent in the future. By the way, thanks for the write ups. It’s good to see the technical details of someone else’s build.

  2. What brand was the ceramic paint? I have liked the Duplicolor ceramic rattle-can paints. The “aluminum” color comes out nice, but I think I’ll try rubbing it on. Spray a little puddle, rub, repeat…?

  3. Duplicolor only makes a 500degree paint but it will work. Wear rubber gloves, wrap your finger with a rag, spray it into a rag, rub it on, repeat. There is a new VHT Flame Proof line is rated at 2000 Degrees but i hear it is more ‘dull’. The paint i used is an old discontinued Duplicolor paint. I used the same technique on the case of my last bike build. It has been on the road for 3 years now (a few rainy days but not many) and the case still looks good… and cleans up easy too.

  4. Thanks for the tips. What are you going to do on the fins (cylinders & heads)? Can’t really rub the paint down in there…
    Great site…thanks for making it.

  5. I may use the same place i used last time to polish the timing covers, cylinder fins etc… then use a specific ceramic clear coat. I am researching now. It seems prices have gone WAY up over the past few years… and i am disappointed.

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