Boyer Brandsen Electronic Ignition in 1979-1980 R65 Points Bean Can install

1980 Red R65 BMW

1980 Red R65 BMW

Although the directions are fairly clear, I went looking online for some installation help while installing a Boyer Brandsen electronic ignition on a R65 BMW that I am fixing up for a friend.

So… here is my install procedure.  I am open to suggestions or tips but this is how my install went.

The carbs were tuned nicely before doing this install. The idle never seemed to get low enough which might indicate ignition problems.
I might suggest you get a spare bean can to perform this on.  You end up modifying the original can  somewhat and it may be difficult if you ever want to go back to stock.

 

Boyer Brandsen Micro Digital ignition system.

Boyer Brandsen Micro Digital ignition system.

I purchased this from Moto Bins in the UK and it arrived within a week.

Of course, you want to disconnect your negative cable from your battery before starting the procedure.
Gastank Removal is necessary for the wiring.
And remove the front engine timing cover.
I took the bean can cover off and front bearing before I started shooting photos.  I was too eager to peek inside the bean can and see what is in there (It is my first time with a points in a can bike).

 

IMG_9299I then removed the bean can from the bike.

R65 Timing cover removal

R65 Timing cover removal and removal of the ignition can.

Removed points in can 1979 - 80 BMW ignition system

Removed points in can 1979 – 80 BMW ignition system

The large circlip needs to come out to disassemble the internals of the can.

The large circlip needs to come out to disassemble the internals of the can.

The points come out easily and then you need to remove the points base plate.

The points come out easily and then you need to remove the points base plate.

Notice the ‘e’ circlip on the center shaft.  Put a rag over the can when you remove that clip just in case it tries to go flying across the garage.  The rag might catch it.

Points base plate removed

Points base plate removed.

The cam has to come off the shaft and you then need to remove the springs to slide off the contact breaker unit.

Circlip removed from the center shaft. The cam has to come off the shaft and you then need to remove the springs to slide off the contact breaker unit.

After you get the center cam removed, be careful with the very small circlips that hold the bob weights.  Those need to come off to get the bob weights off.

Bob weights and center cam removed.

Bob weights and center cam removed.

Now it is time for assembly of the electronic ignition!

This was the first hiccup.  The magnetic rotor does not fit into the housing properly without bending the spring mounting tabs.  They are not easy to bend so it took some work.

Prepping for magnetic rotor install

Prepping for magnetic rotor install

Note the next photo.  The tabs have to align with the notches where the tiny circlips were. The new rotor should sit flat, spin freely and the large clip should secure it to the center shaft.

Magnetic rotor installed

Magnetic rotor installed

Another small snag.  When the stator plate was installed with the cord going out the square hole, and the mounting screws were tightened, the magnetic rotor would not spin freely.  It was a head scratcher in which everything was taken apart, put together again a few times.  Finally by rotating the stator plate 180 degrees and making sure everything spins freely before securing the mounting screws, it happily went together.

Install of the stator plate

Install of the stator plate

Stator plate with cable going out rubber grommit hole vs square hole.

Stator plate with cable going out rubber grommit hole vs square hole.

Now it is time to install the can back on the bike.  IMG_9317

The very large circlip went in and the center bearing plate installed.

The very large circlip went in and the center bearing plate installed.

I removed the diode board so I could route the wires behind it.

Removed Diode Board for wire routing

Removed Diode Board for wire routing

Control unit tucked and strapped to the frame components.

Control unit tucked and strapped to the frame components. It seemed like a tidy place to put it between the two coils.

The green wire connects with the existing green wire terminal on the rear ignition coil.
I also connected the ground wire to the coil mount bolt as well.

IMG_9322

Not photographed but I made about a 12inch extension wire to connect the black wire from the ignition unit all the way to the other coil to replace the wire on the terminal that was connected to the old points condensor. For some reason, they put shrink tubing on the wiring as if they all connect in the same vicinity.  It was either make an extension wire, or cut up the clean tubing so the black wire could reach over to the other coil.

It is all wired up and now time to set the timing.
IMG_9320
I am not used to these flywheels so timing it took a bit of back and fourth.  There is no ‘F’ mark on the flywheel.  But there is the OT and a Z-dot.

Once I got it timed, and I fussed with the idle a bit, it ran great.  Really smooth and more responsive then before.

 

 

BMW R90/6 Rear wheel bearing install

Back to Beemers…
I’m working on a project bike for a friend and had the items powder coated satin black. I’m very excited to see how this bike will turn out.
And yes, I have a very messy garage/workbench at the moment.
I removed the wheel bearings and the races with lots of heat, and the help of a press.
Then went to the powder coat shop and gave them the masking instructions.

Here are some photos of the install.
Not pictured is the process of checking and testing the bearings in the race to make sure they spin smoothly.
If not, clean them, re-test, and clean them again, etc…
Then grease ’em good!
Also not pictured is the process of cleaning the inside of the hub REALLY well. Especially since they were sand blasted.
And.. then there is the process of pre-loading the bearings, freezing them for a day, heating the hub and then ‘plop’, you are done.

Bearings from when I pulled them from the hub.
WheelBearing1

Clean Hub:
WheelBearing2

Preloaded bearing stack. I have a piece of steel pipe that I put on the other side of the stack with the axle to help with the preload.
WheelBearing3

A nice propping set up for when it is all heated. These are damaged cork Yoga blocks that a yoga company couldn’t sell. I happily found a home for them in my garage and they come in handy!
WheelBearing4

Frozen bearing stack and axle dropped into that toasty hot hub.
WheelBearing5

Transmission Install

A Transmission install is actually not difficult.

Step #1 is making sure the swingarm is unmounted from the frame. It can remain connected to the shocks.

I then took caution to protect the frame:

Protection. Notice the rags too:

Time to prep the transmission. It helps if the shifter and the clutch arm are removed. In my case, i removed the shifter but left the clutch arm mounted:

Time to lube the splines. Make sure the splines are clean of dirt and grime. I use a BMW moly grease. It is sticky stuff. :

Keeping the swingarm and rear wheel pulled back, gently lift the transmission into place. It may take a small wiggle here and there to get the splines to mate with the engine.

Make sure the top right bolt of the engine housing aligns properly with the transmission housing as you mate the splines into the clutch:

Time to tighten everything down.
You need a M8 nut and washer for the top right engine stud bolt.
a M8 x 40mm bolt and washer for the top left mount. (Note, i am not installing the BMW airbox. If i was, there is a retaining clip that mounts to the top left bolt along with a washer intended for the airbox).
a M8 X 85mm bolt, washer and nut for the bottom right mount
and a M8 x 40mm bolt and washer for the bottom left mount.
A 6mm hex socket and wrench does the trick along with a 13mm wrench/socket.

Lastly before you mount the swingarm, Make sure you attach the driveshaft boot. Notice the different ends of the boot. The round end is for the transmission, the oval/rectangular end is for the drive shaft.

Next step… aligning and mounting the swing-arm… stay tuned!

Brake Shoes

When Eurotech Motorsports closed down, they had a Siebenrock R75 power kit on sale but it only had one Stainless Steel pushrod tube. While I was placing an order for the remaining pushrod tubes, I figured that I should get some of the brake shoes that Siebenrock sells.
The shoes they sell are Lucas and I am excited to try them out. They appear softer than the hard BMW shoes.
Hard to tell the future but I think we’ll be taking better braking and wearing down brake shoes over poor braking and shoes that never wear down.
Plus, the BMW kit is about twice as expensive as the aftermarket kits out there.

Here is the back of the front brake hub. Remember to lubricate all the pivot pins with grease:

Pivot parts installed:

Bought the gal a new pair of shoes:

Shoes installed. Take note of the different springs. It is important that the thicker spring goes in the proper place:

Don’t forget the snap ring:

I may end up adjusting the arms once the bike is built and the cable is run but for now, i am setting them up in the standard position. The center of the holes should measure 7 inches.

Final Drive:

There is a washer that goes between the pivot pin and the final drive. And remember to lube the pivot pin.

The rear brake shoes were a bit harder to install due to the spring tension. But i find it easiest to install one side, hook up the springs and then bend or snap the other side into place. Make sure everything seats properly.



Fork seal installation

A quick ‘How To’ install the fork seals.

You can pop the old seals out with a screwdriver or something else to pry them out. Just be cautious you don’t score or damage the inside of the fork leg/lower.

First make sure the fork lowers are clean.

Then sit the fork seals flat onto the top of the fork tube. It helps if you have a large socket, or something similar to help drive them in. I happen to have a 36mm socket that fits the diameter of the seal pretty good. It might be better if it was 34 or 35mm but it still did the trick.
I placed the socket over the seal, and tapped it in with a hammer. Here is a photo of the job with the seals about half way in:

Here are the two fork lowers with the seals fully inserted: