Attaching Cafe seat pan to tail section

When i got the seat pan and the tail piece(see previous post), I immediately began to wonder how to mount the two together. BMW’s R100S seat and cowl is a great design and works well with the hinges. But this is a Short Wheel Base model and we are going with the fiberglass tail piece. The tail piece mounts to the subframe through the saddle mount bag loop at the rear of the subframe and a small ‘tang’ that goes into the main frame tube.
The suggestions I got for mounting the seat pan to the tail piece were:
Velcro
Industrial Velcro
Upholstery with snaps (no thanks)
And then finally… i found out about Well Nuts. BINGO!
Well nuts seem perfect because they act as a thin rubber buffer between the to parts. Also when you tighten them they pull the pan snug onto the tail piece.

To do the job, you are going to need about
– 7 Well Nuts
– 6/32 screws to match the Well Nuts – about .75 inches long
– Fender washers for the Screws
– and a 5/32 and 5/16 drill bit.

Well Nuts purchased at the local hardware store (who has lots of my money):

Screws (I went with Stainless Steel):
Fender Washers:

The first step was to mark 3 holes to mount the rear of the seat pan to the tail piece.

The holes are drilled with the 5/32 bit. Just big enough to get my screws through.
The Well Nuts in the photo will eventually live in the seat pan.

Then snug up the upholstered seat onto the tail piece as best you can, and mark through the holes.

I started by drilling holes into the seat pan with the 5/32 bit. BE CAREFUL. DRILL SLOW. If you ram the drill bit through the seat pan, it will go through the other side and ruin the upholstery.

After i drilled the holes in the seat pan, i mounted it to the seat and ran screws through the tail and into the pan to make sure they lined up.

i then widened the holes with the 5/16 bit. AGAIN. DRILL SLOW AND CAREFULLY.

Time to insert the Well Nuts into the rear of the seat pan:

Now that the seat pan is attached to the tail piece, I marked 4 additional holes for some extra reinforcement.
NOTE: Make sure these holes do not conflict with the subframe cross member that contains the fender mounting bracket.

With the seat pan attached, I drilled (5/32 bit) carefully and slowly though the tail piece straight through the seat pan. i did this for all 4 holes so they would match perfectly.

I then widened the holes on the seat pan ONLY with the 5/16 bit:

All done. 7 screws all lined up. Seat pan is securely attached to the tail section.

BMW Cafe tail and seat

A while back, we purchased some fiberglass parts from Craig at Boxer Cafe. Craig has been great to work with and talk to. He even made a custom front fender specially for us.

As with building any custom bike, the parts you buy may not be perfect. They usually require some modification. But they are a great starting point.

Here is a rolling mock up of the bike build before i completely tore everything apart for rebuild and powder coat:

Craig didn’t have seat pans ready when we purchased the bodywork so a month or so later, the seat pan arrived:

It was good to test fit and take notice of the specific clearances/gaps/and spaces we had to work with:

The lower front corners of the seat pan had a sharp corner to it. I thought it would end up tearing fabric over time so i rounded it out.

The seat went to Autos International in San Diego for upholstery.

Thankfully, somebody in the upholster shop has a keen eye and noticed that the seat pan is slightly uneven. The tail sections (seat Cowl) and seat pan are not symmetrical parts but should fit the bike without uneven gaps and without looking crooked.

So the seat came back to my garage with the foam attached and thankfully it did. I re-test fit everything and then shaved down some areas to even the gap between the tank and the seat.

Again, I’m glad the seat came back into my hands because I also realize that the foam was a bit too high. It made the seat just a bit too tall. I’m only 5’9″ and the bike’s owner is a bit shorter then I am. So some foam has to go so we can touch the ground with both feet.

More notes for the upholstery shop:

The seat was returned about a month later and it looks stunning. Smells good too! And great craftsmanship.


Seat and Tail together. I can’t wait to have this on a running bike.

I am probably going to do one final modification. There is a small piece of the tail piece that sticks out under the seat. I am going to shave it down before the tail piece goes to get painted.

Frame painted. Finally.

I don’t know what went on with my powder coat shop (Hy Tech) but finally, months after I dropped it off, they finished it.
We tried finding a few different powder coatings but nothing matched the Porsche silver we are trying to match to. We did find something else and it is really close to the color we are trying to match.
It is a High Temperature liquid coat that gets sprayed on similar to spraying on powder except it isn’t electronically charged like powder is. It can be applied to other surfaces then metal.
It is a catalyzed Polyurethane that is baked on in an oven. Though not as hot as powder baking… and not as low as baking car paint.
It is a custom silver color that is made for Stop Tech brake calipers. It is resistant to Brake fluid (which eats away any sort of paint). So if this is resistant to brake fluid, you know it is durable stuff.
It doesn’t go on as thick as powder.
And i believe there is a clear coat over top of it…

 
Like Santa came and left me some presents to unwrap:
Like Santa came and left me some presents to unwrap.
 
bright silver.
 
shiny.
 
View of the bottom of the swingarm:
View of the bottom of the swingarm.
 
Center stand, fork legs and rear of the frame:
Center stand, fork legs and rear of the frame.

Vapor Blasted heads

Building an airhead BMW that is functional and looks pleasing can be tricky. For example, i got new cylinders from Siebenrock but the aluminum of the clean BMW heads did not match the cylinders.
I thought about different paints and ceramic coatings to use to make them match but the bare aluminum is the most effective way of cooling these machines.

So after some research, i found a place that does Vapor Blasting.
Check out Jeff in Oregon http://www.vaporblasting.biz/index.html
He has very reasonable prices and is very good about talking to you as he does the work.
I sent the heads to Jeff to have blasted. I am VERY pleased with how shiny they came out. It is probably as close as I am going to get to have them match the cylinders.
I’m still thinking of having the heads clear coated with a coating that supposedly does not adversely effect the heat dissipation. I know nothing will be as good as bare aluminum but i am concerned with the long term looks of this bike and after a few thousand miles, i don’t know if the bare aluminum will stay looking so bright unless every fin gets cleaned after every ride…
I used these guys on my last bike and i can say the parts are a joy to clean vs factory BMW aluminum. http://www.xtremeperformanceheatcoatings.com

Before:
HeadCylP1010505, siebenrock cylinder and R75/5 head

AFTER:
IMAG0656lr, Vapor Blasted BMW R75/5 head with Siebenrock Cylinder


Not a perfect match… but close enough.

IMAG0657, Vapor Blasted BMW head to match Siebenrock Cylinder