I set a box of small parts aside to be polished when i tore the bike apart. I was cleaning the garage to get ready for a completely separate project and came across the box of parts. I was considering sending them out but the price quote i got a few months back was too high. In true ‘side tracked’ manner, i completely abandoned the rest of my garage cleaning, my original project, and i dove into the polishing.
I did a test first on one of the front brake arms to see if it was worth it.
before and after. The camera makes the scratches look worse then they are. The piece came out chrome-like.
The key to polishing is actually the sanding. The more you sand out the blemishes, the nicer the polish will look. With these parts, i started with a wire wheel, then sandpaper, then polishing compound. I could have spent 8 hours just sanding these parts. At a certain point, i decided to cut my losses. Some blemishes where too deep or not completely necessary to remove.
After a wire wheel and 250 grit sandpaper:
After 320, then 500 grit paper:
After the ‘stage 1’ polishing compound:
Done for now. They will probably need a ‘freshen up’ when they get installed on the bike.
This is after stage two of the polishing compound:
After TONS of cleaning, I finally decided on which paint to use. I went with a 1200 degree ceramic based engine paint i had sitting in my garage. I had nearly a full can left from an old project. It seemed to go on the smoothest when i rubbed it on.
Yes, i said rubbed it on… meaning i didn’t spray or brush the paint on, i actually rubbed it into the metal with a rag. After i finished, if needed, i would go over an area with a very light spray.
I desperately wanted the POR 15 engine enamel to work but it did not brush on very smoothly. It went on VERY thick and adds an entirely new surface to whatever you are painting (i tested on a BMW valve cover for my 2002). It looked almost like a powder coat type surface.
It sprayed OK but i didn’t want to spray my parts and worry about masking everything off. The rub technique worked well at times, and not at others.
If you buy it, i do recommend thinning and spraying it. It is actually a nice product. I sprayed one side of a 318i manifold and it looks pretty good. i think the thinner and the spray helped it not go on so cake-like.
Anyhow, back to my ceramic based high temp paint… I started with the final drive and front brake hub. When i finished those, i went to look for more paint only to find out it was discontinued about 2 years ago.
Douph! Just my luck…
I began to think of how much paint i wasted on testing, and spraying other stuff…
Final drive painted. Half the front brake hub is painted.
Done and dry.
With fingers crossed, i made it through the project with enough paint to spare for touch ups (if needed). Phew… it was a nail biter though.
My motorcycle lift has become a test center. I plan on fuel injecting my 1972 BMW 2002 someday… so i have some car parts to test high heat engine paint on before i apply it to the motorcycle bits. Last time i had great success rubbing paint on. I may use the same paint/technique… however the paint i want to use looks best when i spray it… oh decisions…
I love bare steel.
I got a call from the powder coat shop yesterday. My parts are blasted. I went down there today to go over what needs to be masked and not coated. I spent about an hour roughly taping things off. I can’t imaging how long it will take somebody to mask it all properly.
hubs, fork sliders, center stand, final drive.
Frame (and somebody's car rims).
Little bits. Final Drive.
Even smaller bits.
Some Stop Tech brakes.
More Stop Tech calipers. After they get coated, there is a crew of women who screen print the logos on them.