It’s been about 5 years since i have pulled a flywheel and a clutch from an airhead engine. I do remember the process being slightly ‘dangerous’ in that if you don’t remove the clutch properly, the force of it could cause harm to yourself or your motorcycle. I don’t have the BMW ‘special’ tools at my disposal to do so safely… so i figured i would make my own. Total cost – $10 from my local Ace Hardware store (which happens to have the best spare bolt, nut, screw selection i’ve ever seen).
No need for the BMW Special tools.
You will need to purchase three M8 x 1.00 thread (fine thread) bolts about 2 inches long.
i also purchased a small piece of aluminum tubing that fits around the bolt:
The first step is to remove every other bolt on the clutch disk that secures it to the flywheel:
I cut the aluminum tubing into three sections about 3/4 inch.
Then screwed in the 2 inch long bolts with the tubing on it into those every other holes:
The reason for the bolts with the spacers is to safely alleviate the pressure into a ‘second’ stage. When you remove the three remaining ‘factory’ bolts, the disk’s pressure releases itself outward, safely, onto the spacers:
Now it is simply a matter of removing the remaining 3 bolts, evenly, until the clutch disk is released.
To remove the flywheel, you have to prevent the engine from turning while removing the flywheel bolts that secure it to the crank shaft.
Also, without securing the flywheel, you can also run a risk of knocking the inner thrust washer (around the camshaft) off the pegs within the inside of the engine block. SERIOUS damage could occur within your engine case if that happens.
BMW recommends a ‘special tool’ but it is merely a device that locks the flywheel in place.
I made my own from a piece of steel for $2.00.
After some quick cutting and drilling, I have my very own version of the ‘special tool’.
Use the original flywheel bolts, and finger tighten them as much as you can and you are now free to use a nice breaker bar, a 17mm socket(i think) and crank out those flywheel bolts.
Some suggest using a center punch and making a small score on the crank shaft and another on the flywheel so you can put the flywheel back in the exact same position and your TopDeadCenter mark is still accurate. Using a permanent marker might do the trick for a short term solution.
That’s it! Now that the flywheel is removed, time to send it off to get lightened!
Another note while the flywheel is out… some people put white paint on the timing marks so you can see them better when timing. Just a tip….
Oh… and remember to THROW AWAY the 5 flywheel bolts. They are torque specific bolts and once they are torqued to spec, the can’t be used again. If so, they may wiggle back out and cause some SERIOUS damage.
For more info on clutches and flywheels, look here:
Measure your clutch parts – http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/clutch/index.htm
Northwoods airheads sells a $4 crankshaft blocking bolt to prevent the crankshaft from moving forward when removing the clutch / flywheel.
it is located here. http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html
There are many many options out there for clubman style handlebars. I am often asked which bars i used for my bike. I think they are Clubmans for a Suzuki but I lost the link to them due to a computer crash years ago. According to the photo mine are called ‘Clearance’ Clubmans and are a 7/8 bar size. I saw this ad on Craigslist a while back and ‘Borrowed’ the person’s photos. I hope this helps those in search for specific clubmans. You’ll have to do some modifications to get the 22mm BMW clamps and controls to fit on the 7/8 bars.